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I don’t remember when the idea of visiting the Amazon first lodged itself into my brain, but it’s been there for some time. Maybe it was all those hours glued to nature documentaries as a little girl. Imagining trees the size of buildings and animals of all shapes and sizes. Digging, climbing, slithering. Hiding in plain sight. Surviving in the fascinating tangles of the jungle.
When I spent three months in Ecuador in early 2022, I knew my chance to explore this wild world had arrived. And so in I went, into the muddy realm of the Ecuadorian Amazon.
This is a long article! Feel free to jump around using the table of contents below.
The Amazon in Ecuador: the basics, where to stay and how to get there
But first, a few basics to remember just how incredible the Amazon rainforest is. It’s estimated that around 10% of all known species can be found here, and any visit will introduce you to at least some of them.
Brazil usually steals the spotlight for Amazon visits, but the Amazon stretches across nine countries in South America: Brazil, Peru, Colombia, Venezuela, Bolivia, Guyana, Suriname, French Guiana, and—yes—Ecuador.
Smaller in size but no less spectacular, the Amazon in Ecuador should not be overlooked. It’s home to diverse ecosystems, an incredible range of wildlife, and a number of indigenous communities. So if you’re in the area, consider this unique gateway into the legendary jungle, colloquially referred to as the ‘oriente’.
The Amazon Rainforest in Ecuador: where to go and how to get there
There are a few main ways to visit the Amazon in Ecuador, each with its own pros and cons. I’ve listed the three main reserves below.
Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve
For wildlife enthusiasts and eco-tourists, Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve is a standout and economic choice. Famous for its network of blackwater lagoons, winding rivers and dense jungles, this protected area is known for biodiversity as well as affordability.
Guided tours here often include canoe trips, birdwatching, and nighttime jungle hikes. Wildlife you might spot include pink river dolphins, caimans, snakes, and countless bird species.
Getting there does take some time if you’re coming from Quito. Factor in 7-8 hours by bus or private shuttle to get to Lago Agrio, another 1-2-hour bus to get to Cuyabeno Bridge, and 2-3 hours by boat to reach the eco lodges (click here for the full guide).
Yasuni National Park
Located farther south is Yasuni National Park, considered one of the most biodiverse places on Earth. This is another excellent choice and similar to Cuyabeno in many ways: most of the accommodation is beautiful but basic, the lodges are deep in the rain forest and you’re likely to see similar wildlife. The activities lodges offer are also very similar, and include canoe rides and hikes.
When I was researching, Yasuni seemed to have a bit more variety in accommodation than Cuyabeno, so you may be able to find a more upscale lodge. That said, my understanding is that Yasuni and Cuyabeno are pretty comparable, with the main difference being that the activities may be a little more ground-based in Yasuni and water-based in Cuyabeno. That’s because Cuyabeno is closer to a big network of lagoons. (Although you’ll probably do both ground and water activities in both places).
From Quito, getting to Yasuni requires a similar, slightly easier journey than to Cuyabeno. You can take an 7-hour bus to Coca, followed by a couple of hours on a boat to get to the heart of Yasuni.
Side note: which is better out of Cuyabeno or Yasuni?
I see a lot of people arguing about which is better out of Cuyabeno, or Yasuni. People go back and forth, saying one or the other is more authentic, more rugged, or further ‘in’.
My personal opinion is that they both sound fantastic, and that you’ll actually have a pretty similar experience in both. Look at the two on a map: they’re both tucked within the same corner of the Amazon in Ecuador, both deep within the jungle, both with resident indigenous communities. Both offer authentic experiences and an incredible range of biodiversity and wildlife. Cuyabeno may just have a few more lagoons to paddle in, and may be cheaper than Yasuni.
Misahualli
For those with a bit less time, the Misahualli area is the closest and most accessible option from Quito. While it’s not as remote as Cuyabeno or Yasuni, it provides a quick taste of the Amazon, and is ideal for relaxing as well as adventure activities like white-water rafting and jungle treks. You’ll have to get to Tena first, where many tours balance accessibility with a genuine Amazon experience. It’s ideal for people with limited time, and sometimes, mobility.
From Quito, it’s around 5 hours by road to Tena, the gateway town to the Amazon in that area. Misahualli is then around 15 minutes away.
I’ve created a Google map to show approximately where each location is (shown with a heart), along with the gateway town necessary to reach the location (shown with a suitcase), with a few notes.
If you’d like to move around the map or save it, feel free to access it here.
While some of the areas are quite remote, there are well-established routes in, meaning the journey can be long but is not hard. Lodges and hotel are more than happy to help you organise the transport.
Locations where you can visit Ecuador’s Amazon Rainforest
How should you choose where to go?
It really depends why you’re going and what your priorities are. If you’re tight on time, Misahualli is the way to go. If you’re hoping to spot specific wildlife, have a look at what’s most common in each area (with no guarantees, of course).
I would starting by looking at the accommodation in each area (using Google Maps, for example). In addition to where you’d be staying, lodge websites often show you the activities that take place in the area, so you can get a good idea of what you’d be doing when there. Photos can also give you an idea of how basic you can expect your accommodation to be.
Checking out the lodges will also give you an idea of cost for each place. Keep in mind that it’s common for lodges to list their pricing as all-inclusive of basic meals and Amazon tours. Very generally speaking, Cuyabeno is the most affordable. Lodges both there and Yasuni tend to be more rugged and budget-friendly. Misahualli has both upscale and basic choices. This is not a hard-and-set rule, more just a trend I found when researching.
My experience of the Amazon in Ecuador
Hopefully, you now have an idea of the basics when it comes to location. So I’ll tell you about my own experience in the Ecuadorian Amazon.
For my first venture into the Amazon, I chose to go to Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve. I chose this destination for a few reasons:
- It was a gift for my partner, who loves remote and rugged – a lot of the eco lodges in the area met that brief
- I love wildlife spotting from the water, and I knew we’d have ample opportunities
- The activities available seemed a great match for us – challenging, but worthwhile
- The area had a great combination of the wildlife we hoped to see
- It was accessible from Quito, and we had the time to get there
Yasuni would have also been an excellent choice for us. If we return to the Amazon in Ecuador, that’s where we’ll head next time.
Getting from Quito to Cuyabeno
The journey from Quito to Cuyabeno is itself quite of an adventure. I’ve written a standalone post that goes into the details of the journey for anyone interested, but there are two main things to know:
- It sounds a bit crazy but it’s not bad, getting you from point A to B in around 12 hours
- It’s well organised and will be arranged by your lodge. All you need to do is show up with enough cash for your Amazon excursion, and then sit back and try to sleep
The blog post includes tips for the journey, but in case you don’t read it, I’d recommend the following:
- have warm clothes ready for any overnight buses (and cool clothes ready for the boat ride)
- get cash ahead of time so you don’t need to look for ATMs between legs (the stopping areas are not always safe)
- board the last boat with mosquito repellent and/or sunscreen, and get ready to spot wildlife!
Right! So you have your stuff and you’re entering the Amazon. The below details the lodge we chose and our experience there.
4 days in Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve
Bamboo Eco Lodge
For our first adventure into the Amazon, we chose to stay at Bamboo Eco Lodge. As a full disclaimer, this post is in no way sponsored by them and we paid for our tour fully out of pocket. Below is my honest opinion of the experience.
- Mix of excursions: we felt our package included a really good range of activities geared to our level and interests – we were happy being challenged, but didn’t want it to feel impossible. There were night tours, hikes, bird watching, plus a visit to the Siona community. You do have to be quite fit in order to hike in the hot temperatures, but there’s only one day where the hike was a little more challenging.
- Group size: groups don’t exceed 10 people. Our group was 6 people most days, and 8 people on the last day.
- Eco-friendly: the lodge is solar-powered and primarily constructed with bamboo. Rain is filtered using rainwater harvesting and filtration systems. They lodge donates to the nearby Siona community (who you will probably visit while there).
- Unique: the lodges are really special. You have your own space and bathroom, but you’re also really blending in with the surrounding rainforest. You have a mosquito net, but the room is pretty exposed (we found a tarantula in our room one night*!). Watching and smelling tropical rain from the room and being woken up by animals running on the roof are things I won’t forget. (*It had no interest in us and crawled away as soon as we came back in our room).
- Fair pricing: we felt the price was very fair for what you got. My partner and I paid $350 each to stay in a Junior Suite for 3 nights and 4 days. This included a king size bed with a mosquito net and private bathroom, all of our meals, transport from Nueva Loja/Lago Agrio and all excursions.
- Nice communication: the lodge was also great in answering questions while I was exploring options. They even prepared a special birthday cake for my partner’s birthday.
So what did that look like in a little more detail?
While schedules may change due to weather conditions, this is what our four night, three-day excursion looked like.
Day 1: briefings, arrival, Laguna Grande
We were quite tired after the overnight travel from Quito. The bus driver dropped us off at a hotel in Lago Agrio/Nueva Loja, where we chilled and had breakfast. Then, the lodge’s transport picked us up and made the journey to El Puente, and then to Bamboo Eco Lodge. We got there in the afternoon.
We had lunch at the lodge, checked in to our rooms and met our guide. After a quick rest, we headed right back out. We took paddling canoes to Laguna Grande (the big lagoon), where you can actually swim (I chickened out but my partner went in!) and saw our first terracotta jungle sunset, which was pretty extraordinary.
We got back to the hotel where we had dinner. A member of the nearby Siona community (one of several indigenous tribes that live in the Amazon in Ecuador) came to say hello and welcome us. We would visit the community a few days after.
Next, it was time for our first night expedition on the canoes. During the day, we’d seen the odd caiman here and there, usually camouflaged in the water. When we got on the canoes, our guide told us that caiman eyes reflect the lights, and to look out for them, as they look like little stars in the water.
He pulled out the flashlight and shone it across the river. Everywhere he pointed, there were little eyes looking back at us. When the light hit them, they would hide back under the water. I hoped the canoes were sturdy, as we saw the sizes of them in the day – and they were not small.
Once on the canoe, I didn’t take many photos because bugs are so drawn to the light (and there are LOADS of them) but trust me – it was amazing!
Day 2: canoeing, hiking
After breakfast at the lodge, we set out by canoe to an area where we would hike. The lodge lends you wellies, which are absolutely essential. Even if you have your own hiking boots, the mud is so deep and filled with water, that it really pays to take the big ones.
This day was hard but spectacular. Wildlife watching from the canoes is amazing – we saw caymans, monkeys, birds of all kinds, sloths, and so much more. Our guide, Ronald, was knowledgeable, friendly, and always happy to answer questions.
Our group was mainly on its own (well, with Ronald of course), with a few exceptions when we went on the trails. One of the highlights was how many snakes we saw.
We were so lucky to have Ronald as our guide – he had an incredible eye and was a true expert, forever fascinated by and respectful of the jungle. At one point, he spotted a small but pretty venomous viper hiding in a pile of leaves right on the trail. He was worried someone would step on it by accident, which would be bad for the snake, and potentially lethal for the person.
Having some close calls with snakes in the past, Ronald gently moved it off the trail. To note: snakes are not usually aggressive unless disturbed. But when they’re on the trail, it’s easy to disturb them by accident because they’re so well camouflaged. Obviously, do not try to do this yourself!
Most people wear long sleeves when hiking (including our guide). This is for two reasons: sun and bugs. I’ve been to quite a few rainforests before, but this part of the Amazon was something else. The air is thick, heavy and dense, and bugs are constantly trying to get in. When there’s sun, it feels harsh and unforgiving. It really feels like humans shouldn’t be here.
Hiking itself was hard too. It was more than 30 degrees (Celcius), and on muddy stretches, boots sink in and make it hard to get your feet out without leaving the boot behind. After a while, every step feels like an effort.
Water also gets in, inevitably, when crossing rivers where the water comes up to your waist. All part of the fun of course!
A few hours in, Ronald got word that there was an anaconda nearby. He led us to a small swamp, where at first we saw nothing.
Then, a few tiny bubbles began to emerge here and there under the mud. Slowly, we began to see something moving under the mud. Lo and behold, she came up and poked her head through the mud to say hello.
Here we were met with another group with a passive guide. Believe it or not, a couple of these tourists began to actually throw stones at the anaconda. Their guide said nothing to them.
Luckily, Ronald did intervene. A couple in our group who spoke the same language as them also asked them to stop. They eventually did, after feeling some pressure from our group, but it makes me wonder how many animals they disturbed on their trip, and whether responsible tourism can really exist. Which is a great shame, as the Amazon remains under immense threat and responsible tourism could help bring some much needed eyes, attention and funds to the area.
That said, those who enjoy a little schadenfreude will delight in hearing that not following the rules does come at a cost in the Amazon. When crossing rivers, guides will tell you to always keep your boots on, as there are really sharp plants on the bottom. Ronald held an example up to show us – they look like branches with thorns the size of rulers coming out them.
The anaconda offenders must have ignored the advice, as we saw them crossing the river barefoot. Not long after, we saw them pulling out these long spines out of their feet.
After the hike, we got back on the canoes to head back to the lodge. On the way back, we saw a few pink river dolphins, which was lovely. They’re elusive but curious, so get quite close to the boats before tucking back in under the water.
We caught our breath with some showers and dinner at the lodge before heading back out into the jungle. This time we were on foot, unlike the day before when we went by canoe.
After the night walk, it was bed time. A storm passed, bringing thundering rain, wind and a beautiful smell of the rainforest. Falling asleep to the sound of the fat drops hammering against the roof is a moment I will forever treasure.
Day 3: visit to the Siona community
On the third day, we had breakfast before heading back into the canoes to go visit the nearby Siona community. This was a really interesting day, as we spent several hours learning how they live. One Siona woman showed us how they harvest yuca and make cassava, inviting us to assist along the way.
First, she pulled out a yuca grown there and expertly removed the outer layer with a machete. We then helped her grate it and squeeze out moisture in a net. The next step was to knead it into a dough, which she cooked over a fire, into a kind of tortilla – but crunchier.
We ate them with a sauce made of fresh ingredients – a sort of pico de gallo with tomatoes, lime and onions. It was delicious!
We then had some time to walk around the community, and take everything in. The realities of living in the Amazon basin seem difficult to say the least. The communities are quite remote, meaning it takes time to reach schools and healthcare. Government support is scarce and living conditions can be harsh. Not to mention the constant encroachment (or threat of it) of land for profit which they will likely never see (NB: the Ecuadorian government generally have a pretty bad track record with indigenous Amazon communities).
Perhaps expectedly, some of the Siona were really friendly, while others seemed openly hesitant. If they were wary, I can’t say I blame them, given how often history has seen indigenous communities exploited (we weren’t far from the setting of the Chevron vs Ecuador scandal for example, a summary of which is in my Quito to Cuyabeno transport post).
Getting a glimpse of daily life was really interesting, and definitely made me want to learn more and consider what positive role tourists can play.
One sign that I felt was really positive from our visit is that they seemed to have a great relationship with Ronald. They greeted each other warmly, and laughed and chatted like longtime friends throughout the visit.
We then returned to our faithful canoes for the rest of the day for more wildlife spotting. With Ronald’s keen eye, we we were not disappointed.
Day 4: return to El Puente
Our final day, we went out for a shorter paddle and saw some beautiful birds, which Ronald helped to identify. Then, it was back to the lodge to grab our bags and make the journey back to El Puente.
Now we had been incredibly lucky with the weather so far. We’d seen a storm in the afternoon/night, but never really had rain during the day. But as they say in Tortuguero, they call it the rainforest for a reason. As we prepared to make our journey back, the skies began to open. It made our return trip pretty wet and windy, even causing the canoe to get stuck here and there.
But it’s all part of the fun! And I suppose it wouldn’t have been a complete trip without that luscious rain that makes it all possible.
After a wet ride to El Puente, and a shuttle to Lago Agrio, we enjoyed one last meal with our group. We then made our way to the bus station to grab a bus to Tena, where we connected on to Baños.
So there you have it! Our sweaty, captivating foray into the Ecuadorian Amazon. Was it always comfortable? Nope. Did I struggle to sleep in the heat, wonder whether the roof would cave in from the weight of whatever animal was pounding on it at night, and get rashes from that glamorous paste of sunscreen and mosquito repellent? Yes, yeah, yep! Was it completely worth it, if only to spend a few days in a world teeming with life? Absolutely.
An experience in the Amazon isn’t luxurious, but that’s the beauty of it. Most humans are just not meant to live in these conditions. But if we’re happy to forego a few humble pleasures (aircon, WiFi, dry clothing) for a few days, we’ll be rewarded with a peek into the lungs of the planet. A vivid, unforgettable environment where life thrives behind each crevice and beneath every surface. If you can spot it, that is.
Frequently asked questions:
Have any other questions on the experience? Drop them in the comments or the form at the bottom, and I’ll add them below.
Your guide sounds great. Where can we book a tour with him?
He really was! We were so lucky to have him. Ronald was not only knowledgeable and respectful, but he had an incredible eye. We had him as our guide during a tour with Bamboo Eco Lodge, but he’s freelance. You can get in touch with him directly via Instagram (sharing with permission), and find out what tours he’s doing next.
How rugged is the accommodation in the Amazon?
Set your expectations low and you won’t be disappointed. Our lodge was beautiful and had everything we needed – light, electricity (solar-powered), warm water, drinking water, mosquito nets, food and a basic fan. Things can still get in the room in theory, but they don’t (except mosquitoes and other little bugs). We were comfortable, but the humidity and heat did mean we weren’t getting our best sleep.
If you’re looking for something more comfortable, Misahualli does have some relatively economic, upscale options, although of course it’s a different experience.
If you’re looking for luxury within nature, I would consider the 5-star Mashpi Lodge instead. This is not within the Amazon, but within a beautiful, protected reserve not far from Quito. Oh, and it’s very pricy.
How bad are the bugs?
Let’s just say they’re part of the package. Wear mosquito repellent and keep your mouth closed during night tours and you’ll be OK.
Were you scared at any point?
The scariest part was the journey there (Quito at night is not great, but if you’re careful it’s fine). The animals in the Amazon are much more scared of you than you are of them. I actually asked Ronald what he would fear most in an Amazon survival situation. He answered mosquitoes, simply because repellent would run out and they can carry diseases.
Have any other questions? Drop them in the form below and I’ll add them to the blog and do my best to answer them.
Fancy a rainforest visit that’s a little less hardcore? Check out my guide to Costa Rica’s Tortuguero.
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