Whether it’s your first Sicily holiday or your tenth, read on for planning advice and inspiration
Sicily: land of sea and sun, of myths and mysteries, of lemons and eggplants. One of my favorite places in the world. I’ll admit I’m biased: I was born in Sicily, most of my family is Sicilian, and I’ve spent many wonderful, sunny summers there.
But I think that even objectively, Sicily is a fantastic place to visit. It’s also THE place I get asked about the most. Sure, it’s not as clean cut as other parts of Italy, you may have to work harder and curse the roads (and the drivers), but in a way, that makes the experience more special.
Besides, what other island offers Sicily’s mix of beaches and sun, of historical relics, incredible cuisine, unique architecture, hiking wonders and delicious food and wine that’ll have you dreaming for years to come?
This is a long piece designed to give you practical advice on how to plan a holiday to Sicily, so feel free to jump around using the table of contents.
Have any questions or feedback? Let me know in the comments at the bottom!
Sicily: Geography Snapshot
But first, let’s talk a little bit about geography, because Sicily’s not as small as people tend to think. In fact, Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean sea, covering around 26km².
To give you a comparison, Sicily is, slightly bigger than West Virginia (24km²), quite a bit bigger than Wales (21km²) and more than twice the size of Cyprus (9km²). So if you think you can cross the island by car in an hour, you’d be wrong – especially when you take into account temperamental Google Maps and small roads.
Sicily: How Do You Get There?
There are two main international airports in Sicily:
- Catania (east)
- Palermo (northwest)
There are also two smaller airports: Trapani (northwest) and Comiso (south, by Ragusa). Depending on your plans, you can consider flying into one airport and leaving out of another if you wish to cover a lot of ground while you’re there.
You can also take ferries or speedboats from other parts of Italy (like Naples, Messina and Sardegna), or Tunisia and Malta. Some of them you can bring cars, and some of them you can’t.
Do you need a car to get around Sicily?
This is by far the question I get the most about Sicily. Some people will tell you that you do while others will say you don’t. But the real answer is that it depends on what you want to do. Consider the following:
- If you don’t want to drive, you can use buses to reach main cities and towns, and taxis within them where possible. The train network is not extensive, but it does cover some of the longer stretches.
- Bus tours are available to the main attractions, but you will always be with a group and your choices will be limited.
- If you stay in places that are remote and away from tourist hubs, you will almost definitely need a car.
- A car gives you the flexibility to go to tourist sites outside of the peak hours.
- Driving in Sicily is a nightmare at worst and an adventure at the best (see below).
So what does this mean in practice?
If you want to go to a few main attractions, but want your hotel to be somewhere central (like the city centres of Catania and Palermo, which have a lot to offer), you can get by without a car and have a wonderful time.
If you like to go off the beaten track, stay at remote, quiet hotels or guesthouses which have incredible views and sometimes private beaches… you will almost definitely need a car, although you can always ask for people to organise a drive here and there. Relying on taxis will get expensive and potentially complicated quickly. Don’t expect to rely on Uber.
You can have a fantastic holiday in Sicily with both options. A car offers a lot of flexibility that I have personally really enjoyed, but it’s not necessarily a walk in the park, either. Also, you can still get to smaller towns by train or bus, it just takes a little planning. It really depends on the type of holiday you want to have.
Also consider how much time you’ll be spending in Sicily. If you’re in Palermo for a long weekend and want to do a mix of historical sightseeing, gastronomy tours, and maybe a trip to the beach, you won’t need a car. If you’re in Sicily for a month and keen to explore every nook and cranny, get a car.
What is driving in Sicily like?
The good news is that other tourists have faced up to the challenge successfully. Just Google ‘driving in Sicily‘ and you’ll see hilarious anecdotes and stories from survivors around the world. Many of them are quite useful and funny to read. That said, do factor in some common wisdom.
Driving tips for Sicily:
- Don’t drive for the first time in Sicily
- Make sure that you’re fully insured in advance
- If you’re renting a car, make sure to clarify if you want automatic transmission
- Roads and garages can be very narrow, so avoid cars that are too wide unless you know your destinations well
- Check parking situations in advance (hotel, B&B, restaurant, beaches, etc.)
- You know how to parallel park, right?
- Beware of ZTL zones (limited access areas) in town centres
- Take Google Maps with a grain of salt, as it’s not always up to date. Remember, you can always ask locals
- Check distances and driving times when you plan movements. You don’t want to spend your whole holiday in a car
It may help to also know about the parcheggiatore abusivo – I’m working on another post with FAQs, so I’ll talk about that there.
How should you plan your Sicily holiday?
Hopefully, by now you’ve got an idea of the geography of Sicily, and how to get around. But how should you actually plan your holiday?
There are five main categories of things to do in Sicily:
History and culture
There is history all over the island, from the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, to the ancient cities of Syracuse and Segesta, the Roman villa in Piazza Armerina, to cathedrals and town centres, and even prehistoric caves, to name a very small selection. Going with a guide is always a great way to get a good understanding of the history and culture of an area.
Beach and sea
Sicily has some incredible coastlines. From fine white sand to volcanic, and two archipelagos of gorgeous islands, you’ll be spoiled for choice when you fancy a dip. Taking a boat trip is a great way to get on the water and explore the islands away from the crowds the big beaches (lidis) can get. If you love swimming, some sea shoes will come in handy. There are a lot of rocky or pebbly entrance points to the sea that make for fantastic swimming (but won’t be great on your feet). Obviously only swim where others are swimming and it is clearly safe to do so.
Nature reserves
Sicily offers a lot of hiking with great views, like at the Zingaro Natural Reserve or on Mount Etna.
Gastronomy
How long is a piece of string? From local food markets, restaurants, food and wine tastings, any lover of gastronomy will not walk away from their trip hungry.
It depends on what you want to see most (I’ll offer inspiration in a sec). One category may interest you more than the others, and this would dictate the nature of your trip. Or you may only want to stick with one or two – say beach and nice food.
I recommend the following when planning your holiday in Sicily: consider that Sicily is made of three main parts. Build your vacation clustering points of interest within or around one of them. How many areas you visit will depend on how much time you have. Don’t make the mistake of trying to squeeze in too much and spending all of your holiday in transit.
For example, a lot of people will ask me whether they should try to see both Catania (central, east) and Palermo (northwest) in that time. Sure, you can – but why would you want to? You’ll spend a good chunk in transport, when both areas are actually surrounded by incredible sights. Wouldn’t you prefer to spend your time there?
The three main parts of Sicily are the Northeast, Northwest, and South. In the next section, I cover some of the amazing things you can do in each.
Things to do in Northeast Sicily
The northeast of Sicily is where Catania and Mount Etna are, both of which are worth visiting. Catania’s position in the middle of the east of Sicily makes it an ideal starting point for going north or south. If crossing to the other side to Palermo, you’re looking at at 2.5-3 hour drive.
Catania
Located on the sun-kissed eastern coast is Catania, the city I was born. If you’re landing at the airport there, consider stopping by for a couple of days, as the city has a lot to offer. Plus, it serves as a great base for Etna and Taormina, as there are public transport links that can take you to both.
Walking along the main shopping street, Via Etnea, is a great way to see the Piazza del Duomo, monumental palaces, Baroque-style churches and the Bellini gardens for a little rest. Nearby, the towns of Aci Castello and Aci Trezza are worth a seaside wander if you have enough time. Catania has a lot of fabulous cuisine, and you won’t leave hungry.
Mount Etna
Europe’s highest and most active volcano is definitely worth visiting, especially if you’re a fan of hiking. You can spend half a day exploring the area and walking towards the summit, or simply observe from Catania and nearby areas. You may find it snow-capped, which is rather pretty, or you may even be able to observe an eruption (from afar), which is a pretty incredible experience.
Taormina
Taormina is insanely touristy during the peak season, but for a reason. Nestled on the cliffs overlooking the Ionian Sea, Taormina offers gorgeous views, ancient Greek ruins (like the Teatro Antico), shops and picturesque gardens. Now that the second season of White Lotus was shot there, it’ll surely attract even more tourists. Still, it’s very pretty if you can handle the crowds.
For a more unique experience, try to catch a show at the Teatro Antico in the summer. There should be fewer tourists, and the views of Catania at night are pretty spectacular.
Gole dell’Ancantara (The Alcantara Gorges)
Between Messina and Catania, the Alcantara River has carved a stunning gorge through ancient lava rocks. If you dare, you can immerse yourself in the freezing, clear waters, kayak along the river, or hike along scenic trails within the Gole Alcantara Park. I loved coming here, especially as a kid.
Aeolian Islands
Did you know that Sicily has its own series of surrounding islands? One of these clusters is the picture-perfect Aeolian Islands, a volcanic archipelago that can be reached from Milazzo, in the Northeast of Sicily. The islands are also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
There are seven main islands. They’re really too far to visit on a day trip, so it pays to visit them over a few days. Most people find that making the extra effort to get there is well worth it, but only if you have a bit more time to spare.
Things to do in Northwest Sicily
The main city in the north west of Sicily is history-rich Palermo, but Trapani, Marsala and the Egadi Islands have a lot to offer, too. The international airport in Palermo (Falcone Borsellino, also known as Punta Raisi) can act as a great starting point to exploring this gorgeous part of Sicily.
Palermo
Sicily was invaded by a lot of different cultures: the original Sicilians, the Normans, the Arabs, the French, the Spanish, even a holy Roman emperor lived there. Walking around Palermo, make sure you stop and take in the unique, varied architecture left by former residents. Cobblestone streets, historic residences and food markets make it a beautiful place to wander between visiting attractions like the Norman Palace, Palermo Cathedral and the Catacombs of the Capucins, among many others.
If it’s too hot, Palermo has a number of nearby beaches where you can cool off – but if it’s a nice day, expect crowds.
Another beachy place an hour’s drive from Palermo is the famous Cefalù, one of the most touristy places in Sicily. Cefalù is very pretty and Instagram famous these days – so again, don’t go expecting it to be quiet.
Trapani and Marsala
Heading further west are the cities of Trapani and Marsala, both smaller than Palermo but just as charming. Trapani is a a great base for exploring some of the smaller beaches, Erice and the Zingaro Nature Reserve. Although Marsala has fewer transport links, it’s also lovely, with a pretty historic centre, a unique Arab Quarter and a special, fortified wine.
Both have charming town centres, views of the sea, and are good starting points for a trip to the nearby Aegadian Islands (more below).
The Zingaro Nature Reserve
If you’re into hiking, the Zingaro Nature Reserve (Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro) is a must. A pristine and protected area spanning around 1,600 hectares, the Zingaro (meaning gypsy) was the first natural reserve in Sicily and remains one of the island’s most cherished natural treasures. You’ll need a car to get there, but once in there are no cars around. Inside, you’ll be spoiled for choice with hiking trails of varying difficulty, flora and fauna, and quiet beaches that you can only reach by foot or by boat.
The absence of development and its commitment to conservation makes it a gorgeous place to stroll, hike or relax.
Aegadian Islands
Earlier, I mentioned the Aeolian Islands. But Sicily has the Aegadian Islands, too (didn’t I tell you there’s a lot to see?). Off the western coast of Sicily, you’ll find the three islands which make up Aegadians: Favignana, Levanzo, and Marettimo. In all three, there are boat trips that can take you around the islands for snorkelling and taking in the sights.
In Favignana, the largest and most vibrant of the three, you’ll find crystal-clear waters, hidden coves, and the historical Tonnara Florio, a nod to the island’s rich tuna fishing heritage. There are also a lot of people. Favignana isn’t as pristine as it once was and now can get a lot of traffic, but don’t get me wrong – it’s still a gorgeous place to go.
Levanzo is the smallest of the islands, and a bit more relaxed. You’ll find beautiful beaches, cave paintings (like in the Grotta del Genovese), a charming village known for narrow lanes and whitewashed houses, and again, beautiful turquoise waters.
Finally, there is Marettimo, the farthest to reach and least visited. A haven for hikers and birdwatchers, the main attractions here are hiking trails and swimming, although there’s also a lovely ambiance in the village.
The islands have a few things in common: all three offer incredible waters, and mouthwatering seafood.
Segesta and Erice
Atop a hill overlooking Castellammare is an astonishingly well preserved Doric temple from around 400 BC. It is an incredible feat of architecture, but it’s also incredible that it wasn’t destroyed during the many battles that took place in Sicily.
Nowadays, it’s a tourist attraction reachable by car, bus or shuttle. You can view it from the road, or go up yourself for a closer look (while you’re there, you can also visit the ancient amphitheatre nearby). The road up is steep and bound to get heart rates going, but there’s a bus available for those who find the path a bit much. This is not one for flip flops (you’ll slip on the way up), but well worth a view.
Visiting Segesta can easily be paired with a trip to Erice (around 30 minutes away by car). Erice is a historic, picturesque and charming town with labyrinthine streets and incredible views.
Keep in mind that Erice is hardly a secret and gets crowded. Particularly in the daytime, tourbuses make a daring journey up the narrow, winding roads to the top. As the evening takes hold, it gets a little quieter. This is the perfect time to roam the less busy streets, find a spot to watch the sunset, or sample one of Sicily’s many delicious wines.
Driving there yourself? Leave plenty of time to navigate the roads and find parking. For a sunset dinner with a view, we enjoyed Ristorante Monte San Giuliano (book ahead and ask for a table with a view).
Things to do in Southern Sicily
Thirdly, we get to the south of Sicily, the bottom triangle. If you’re not coming from far, Comiso Airport could be a good airport to fly into, as it’s right in the middle of the area.
Many (not all) tourists choose to spend their time in Sicily around Palermo or the northern coast. Read on to discover why Sicily’s southern region is a tempting alternative or glorious addition.
Syracuse
Another day, another gorgeous ancient city to visit – that’s the Sicilian guarantee. Located on the southeastern coast around an hour south of Catania, is Syracuse. A city steeped in history and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Syracuse will please visitors whether there for history, sea, or fabulous food and wine. This is one you can get to with public transport, too.
Top attractions include wandering through charming Ortigia island (Syracuse’s historical centre), visiting architectural gems like the Cathedral of Syracuse, and well-preserved historical sites like the Archaeological Park of Neapolis, Greek Theatre and Ear of Dionysius – to name a few. Make sure to leave at least a couple of days.
Noto
Keep heading south and you’ll hit Noto, a beautiful town known for its Baroque architecture. Also a UNESCO World Heritage Site (after all, Sicily has seven), Noto rose from the ashes after a devastating earthquake in 1693 and now is home to an incredible display of architecture, from honey-hued church facades to grand palaces and pristine civic buildings.
If that’s not your scene, gorgeous beaches and Avola vineyards (home to Sicily’s famous Nero d’Avola red wine) are never far.
Marzamemi (and other smaller towns)
Once a fishing village, Marzamemi is one of many picturesque towns dotted around the southern tip of Sicily. Surrounded by enviable beaches (like San Lorenzo) and home to a small, colourful centre, Marzamemi is the perfect place to dip your toes or enjoy a seaside dinner among pastel-hued buildings. Sound up your street? We loved Ristorante Campisi, where reservations are a must.
Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples
Heading back west on the southern coast is Agrigento. Its UNESCO-listed Valley of the Temples is a true historical and archaeological wonderland, featuring a series of remarkably well-preserved ancient Greek temples and panoramic views.
After a day exploring the valleys, you can extend the journey into the medieval heart of Agrigento, where the Cathedral of Saint Gerland and Church of Santa Maria dei Greci offer something a little more recent. If you’re a fan of old stones – this one’s not one to miss.
Piazza Armerina
Finally, we can’t talk Sicilian history and neglect Piazza Armerina and its (you guessed it) UNESCO World Heritage Site. The crown jewel of this town is the Villa Romana del Casale, an ancient Roman residence dating back to the 4th century AD. The villa houses some of the finest Roman mosaics in existence, and offers an unparalleled look into life in the Roman Empire.
And of course, as everywhere in Sicily, the town then offers a range of excellent restaurants and trattorias full of delights to happily offset any step count.
Final words
With so many amazing things to do (I’ve shared just a selection!), it can be tempting to try and do it all. But my advice is to really select a few areas and enjoy them in depth, rather than running from place to place trying to see it all. This is Italy after all, and enjoying your vacation is important.
Besides, anything you miss you can pick up on your next visit, as hopefully you’ll be desperate to return.
If you’ve made it all the way down here… congratulations! I hope you’ve enjoyed immersing in a bit of Sicily trip planning. I’m still working on this piece and adding the following sections:
- Weather in Sicily
- The downsides of Sicily
- FAQs
- Sicilian food
So if you have any questions, feel free to add them to the comments and I’ll answer them as soon as I can. I’d also love to know:
- Have you been to Sicily? Why or why not?
- If you’ve been, what did you like? What did you dislike?
- If you haven’t been, where tempts you?
Buon viaggio! (Have a great trip!)
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