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Ah, Edinburgh in the winter. I return time and time again, knowing that the cold will work its way through all of my layers, that every street will gleam with that signature dampness, that the wind will make me question why I ever venture north for a holiday. But with it comes all of Edinburgh’s allure, too: that broody gothic charm, the mysterious dark corners, the romantic glow of anywhere that offers refuge from the cold. It’s just not the same in the summer.
So for Guy Fawkes night one particularly biting November, my partner and I returned to Edinburgh to celebrate our anniversary. Now our (ok, my) incessant pragmatism means we rarely splurge, but this felt like the perfect time to do so. For the occasion, I chose the 5-star Bonham Hotel, for ticking many of my hotel boxes: not too many rooms, a quiet location away within walking distance of the centre, eco efforts, a fascinating history, and a Victorian, velvety ambiance perfect for winter contemplation.
The following is my honest review of a trip to the Bonham in Edinburgh in 2022.
Location
You’re not exactly in the thick of things at the Bonham, but that’s part of the charm. The hotel is tucked away in Edinburgh’s leafy West End, a pretty neighbourhood named after its position rather than any theatre. You can walk there from the centre in about 20-30 minutes, while a taxi takes 5-10. During the journey, the roads become less touristy and more residential – very nice houses I should add!
The Bonham is also not far from the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (around a ten-minute walk away and well worth a visit). Close by is also the Leith Water Way, which is a stunning walk if weather allows. You can follow this to the city centre and eventually, all the way to Leith.
First Impressions
We arrived late on a Friday evening, wet and cold after umbrellas proved useless. The staff was so lovely when we came in rather bedraggled. They checked us in, congratulated us on our anniversary and sent two glasses of champagne up to our room shortly after. In our room, we also found a handwritten note with artisan chocolates and shortbread. By this point, champagne in hand, I’m already wondering why we don’t always splurge.
All in all, my first impression was very positive. It seemed a perfect place to unwind, with thoughtful staff keen to go above and beyond.
History of the Bonham
The Bonham was first built in the late 19th century, and you see references to it throughout: tall ceilings, long winding staircases, carved door frames and detailed cornicing. While the Bonham opened as a hotel in 1998, it originally housed female medical students from the University of Edinburgh.
A £2.7 million renovation in 2018 restored all 49 rooms while nodding to its heritage. Around the hotel, you’ll find nice modern luxury finishes as well as ornate furniture and a number of unique touches. Many of the oil paintings throughout come from owner Richard Driehaus’ personal collection, adding an authentic rather than hotel-generic feel.
Rooms
My partner and I booked a Superior King and found the room to be airy and spacious, with gorgeous windows that allowed for plenty of light while keeping the heat in.
Our bed was glorious, with a delightful surplus of plush, fluffy pillows and silky smooth sheets. Dimmable lamps and a Roberts radio were perched on two bedside tables, while several adjustable radiators lined the walls.
In the bathroom, you’ll find chic white décor that wouldn’t look out of place in the 1920s, alongside soft bath robes, fragrant toiletries and a very inviting, deep-set bathtub. They also have refillable toiletries instead of the little ones that last about one wash. If you like the scents, you can buy them whole at the reception – in 2022, the cost was £15 per bottle.
The rooms have another rare feature – bins that encourage recycling.
One consideration is that there’s no air conditioning. I actually prefer this as I’m not a fan of it (plus, visiting in November it was the very last thing on my mind). Still, if you burn hot and are visiting in the summer, keep in mind that you’ll only have a fan (or multiple).
Double bedrooms and suites are also available. Costs greatly vary according to room type and timing, but I’ve updated the latest costs (as of late 2025) at the bottom.
Breakfast and bar
One of life’s great pleasures for me is a good hotel breakfast, and the Bonham’s did not disappoint. I’ll go as far as saying that it was a splendid affair, with an a-la-carte menu with hot choices (including haggis, both normal and vegetarian), continental breakfasts and a range of eggs Benedict.
In addition to hot choices (all included in the room with breakfast rates), there’s a buffet with cereals and pastries you can help yourself too, and a Bloody Mary station. How marvellously naughty! Of course you can always skip the vodka and go for a Virgin one.
While we didn’t try the restaurant for lunch or dinner, we did try the bar in the evenings after cold days out wandering. We found mood lighting, experienced, friendly staff and a range of soft drinks, spirits, cocktails and mocktails. Best of all (for me), they had a Martini section (£12 + 12.5% service charge).
The full menu can be found on the Bonham’s website.
Cost
So how much do the rooms cost? Of course costs vary greatly according to which room you stay in, and most importantly, when you go.
The very cheapest rate I’ve seen is from the Bonham hotel website itself on a random Monday a few months away for £145 – that’s a Townhouse Double without breakfast. On the weekends, the rooms are more like £200-600, depending on what you get.
Still, there can be deals, so look out for them – both on their website and booking agents like Booking and Expedia.
I booked a last-minute deal as a Level 3 Genius on Booking, and paid £386 for two nights over Guy Fawkes weekend (Nov 4th-6th, 2022). That was for a Superior King with breakfast included, which I thought that was a great deal considering the quality of the hotel and the breakfast. While that was lucky, I’d be happy to pay more to stay there again.
You can find out more about the Bonham Hotel Edinburgh here, or check availability on Booking here.
Final thoughts
Would I return to the Bonham in Edinburgh? If you can’t tell already, of course I would. I loved all of its unique touches, from thoughtfully curated furniture to their beds that you could sink into, to the sturdy umbrellas that you can borrow (or buy – in 2022 for a mere £10).
The staff always went above and beyond asking if they could help with recommendations, directions or booking taxis. The whole weekend, we felt looked after and pampered, exactly as we hoped.
Finally, if you’re curious how we spent our time in Edinburgh, here’s what we got up to that weekend.
Weekend itinerary (London – Edinburgh, Friday to Sunday):
- Friday: late afternoon LNER train from London to Edinburgh (4-5 hours, dinner on board), cocktails at the Balmoral Hotel’s Bar Prince
- Saturday: lie in, hotel breakfast, Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, walk through Leith Water Way to Leith, late Leith lunch at the Shore Bar and Restaurant, wandering around Leith, taxi back and cocktails at the Bonham
- Sunday: museums (some inspiration here), wandering around the city, pilgrimage to Armchair Books, Calton Hill (or Arthur’s Seat), Edinburgh Vaults tour, dinner at Cafe Royal, 11pm Caledonian Sleeper back
Fancy a bit more detail on a first trip? Check out 7 unmissable experiences for your first trip to Edinburgh.
or, if you want to know more on the train journey between London and Edinburgh, check out my review of the Caledonian Sleeper.
Have questions about the Bonham, or want to share feedback? Leave a note in the comments below.
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