Stubborn Travel

Part 4: A rest stop in Pinamalayan

This part of the journey takes place in Pinamalayan, where I rested for a few days.

If you’ve been following my story, you’ll know that an island called Sibale had caught my attention due to the lack of information I could find on the island. This is part of a longer series on getting from Boracay to Manila in 2015 without flying. If you’re new to the journey, you can catch up on the links below:

• Boracay to Manila the stubborn way: introduction
• Part 1: Caticlan to Dangay Port, Roxas to Pinamalayan
• Part 2: Pinamalayan to Sibale
• Part 3: The Stunning Sibale

Back to Pinamalayan

The 6am journey from Sibale to Pinamalayan was much faster than the outgoing leg. Thanks to calm waters and no stops to drop off cargo, we arrived at Pinamalayan promptly at 8:26am, around 90 minutes faster than the journey going. It was also more comfortable, with a light sea breeze instead of blaring sun.

Reaching the shores of Pinamalayan, I saw a boat leaving. Apparently this was the daily 8:30am boat to Marinduque. This is fantastic news, as Marinduque was my next destination, and I thought I needed to go through Lucena to get there. It also meant I had a bit of time to rest and catch up on work, which had been difficult in Sibale due to the lack of electricity. 

From the port, I unloaded my stuff onto a trike (similar to a tuk tuk) and asked the driver if he could take me to the town centre, if such a thing existed, so I could look for a hotel. He told me he knew a hotel around the corner and took me there. I ran in to quickly investigate and ask for prices. Satisfied, I decided to spend my next two nights in Pinamalayan to do some writing and catch my breath on dry land.

Pinamalayan: Accommodation

I stayed at a placed called the Blooming Rainbow Inn – I’ve linked what used to be the website, but the link is now dead. A Facebook page hasn’t been updated since 2016, which also makes me think it may have closed. This is a shame, as it was a little guest house about a five minute drive from the port.

With only a few people at the inn, I was able to negotiate a pretty good rate (around 350-400 PHP a night in May 2015). There was still no running water, but a Wifi connection, 24 hour electricity, a fan and a private bathroom felt luxurious to me after Sibale, making me a happy camper. Nicer rooms were available for a higher price.

The Inn also had a lovely little terrace on the second floor, a perfect setting for reading, yoga or a coffee. Staff were kind and I’d happily stay there again if I pass through Pinamalayan (and it’s still there).

I see that there are a few more options available online – if you’re passing by, it might pay to check Booking, Expedia and Agoda.

Hanging out in Pinamalayan

Pinamalayan was a little, cheerful town. One strange thing that stood out was the number of cheap, wholesale stores. Everything was on offer, from clothing to bags, shoes, suitcases,  cutlery and bird food. 

I didn’t have much time for sightseeing, but I asked the receptionist at the Blooming Rainbow Inn if there were any beaches in the area. From my understanding there are two main beaches in the near vicinity, although both require trikes (15-30 minute drive) to get there.

The beaches are Pili Beach and Bulaklak. Coming from the center of Pinamalayan, Pili comes first and Bulaklak is behind it. Although Bulaklak was a a much nicer option in my view, I have to say neither impressed me too much – especially after Sibale!

Pinamalayan: Pili Beach

Pili Beach was a collection of mediocre resorts scattered across a grey strip of sand. The water looked OK and I went for a quick dip, but the beach is not kept very well. It’s relatively dirty, even though there aren’t many people there. Every little resort or hut seemed to have its own loud KTV machines reserved exclusively for off-key singers. So… not the ideal place to relax. 

Pinamalayan: Bulaklak

Bulaklak, on the other hand, was much more pleasant to me. The trike driver dropped me off at a resort that looks like it’s been closed for a few months. I walked through it to get to the beach. I went around 4pm on a week day, and aside from two girls playing in water a few hundred meters away, I was the only one. 

Floating platforms with built-in benches hover peacefully on the water. A rope runs under each platform, going from the beach to about 100 meters into the ocean, so you can pull on the rope, and it drags the platform out to where it’s deeper. I sat on one of these platforms by myself and read for a few hours before heading back…. or trying to (more on that below!)

Getting back from Bulaklak was a bit of a hassle as there were no trikes. If you go, I suggest you arrange a pick up with the driver who drops you off.

Luckily for me, a nice family I met on the street tried to help me find one, and eventually insisted that one of their teenage nephews drive me back on his motorcycle. We were quiet on the thirty minute drive, as his English was limited.

His eyes lit up when I gave him 100 pesos to say thank you. He looked young, so I knew it was probably a handsome tip for him, but I was so grateful. As he turned the motorcycle I asked him how hold he was. “14!” he said happily. He smiled and waved, one hand on the motorcycle, as he drove away.

I spent the rest of my time indoors writing and wandering around a lot of deserted but pretty roads.

I left the Blooming Rainbow Inn around 8am in the morning to go catch the boat to Marinduque, my next island destination.

Ready for part 4? Click here to hop aboard the boat to Marinduque.