Stubborn Travel

Part 4: The road to Marinduque

This part of the journey takes place in Marinduque, where I spent a few days in 2015.

If you’ve been following my story, you’ll know that an island called Sibale had caught my attention due to the lack of information I could find on it. This is part of a longer series on getting from Boracay to Manila in 2015 without flying. If you’re new to the journey, you can catch up on the links below:

• Boracay to Manila the stubborn way: introduction
• Part 1: Caticlan to Dangay Port, Roxas to Pinamalayan
• Part 2: Pinamalayan to Sibale
• Part 3: The Stunning Sibale
• Part 4: Resting in Pinamalayan

Heading to Marinduque

By now, I’d been from Caticlan to Dangay Port (after my original ferry to Bulalacao didn’t show up), Pinamalayan, and Sibale. I was excited for Marinduque – a larger, more established island known for national tourism.

I will start by saying that when it comes to Marinduque, there are much, much better blogs than mine. So go on, go back to the internet and find a good one! This one is my take on Marinduque from 2015. If you do choose to read on (you brave soul), and have been or heard similar things, I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments at the end of this blog.

If you have your own blog, let me know too! I can link it here.

Overall impression: Marinduque is gorgeous and I would love to return – but better prepared and with more time and budget.

For me, Marinduque was the third-to-last stop of my trip. I was exhausted, low on cash, and I hadn’t done nearly enough research. I had completely underestimated its size and how long it would take me to get around, for starters.

The boat to Marinduque

On the boat to Sibale, my being alone concerned the passengers, intriguing them and inspiring them to offer me crackers, tips and a history of the area. The 8:30am daily boat (in 2015) from Pinamalayan was less pleasant. A group of men kept hounding me with questions and for pictures of me.

At first, I didn’t mind the conversation. But it gets old quickly when you’re stuck on a boat, and it became clear they’d been drinking. Thankfully most of them got the got the hint that my patience was growing thin, but one persisted, asking for my phone number and refusing to leave. At one point I closed my eyes and pretended to go to sleep, which he took as a signal to come closer and whisper something in my ear. I snapped and told him to leave me alone, which he did.

The rest of the trip was pleasant. I headed to the boat deck on my own and soaked up the rays while everyone else was inside in the shade.

Now, in 2015, getting around Marinduque was a total pain in the ass.

Arrival to Marinduque: Chaos!

The port that we got to wasn’t actually a port. Tiny boats lined up next to ours, and we took turns stepping onto them among rough waves that rose and fell without warning. The crew kept telling us that balance was key and it was all about timing, since the boats would only be next to each other for a few seconds before falling with the waves.

Chaos, yelling, and rushed voices. My main concern was my laptop, my only connection to my remote freelance work. My backpack felt like the safest place, yet it was not safe at all. But hey, we get to the shore in one piece, and the laptop is dry.

When we get to the coast, some locals grabbed my bag and loaded up one of their trikes, asking me where I wanted to go. Then, around 10 men surrounded me yelling different routes, prices and instructions. I grabbed my bag back and walked away, with some following me persistently. I struggled to get anywhere due to people blocking my way. Eventually I lost my patience and yelled at them to leave me alone.

Situations like this – which can be expected in places like Marinduque – can be overwhelming when you’re on your own and taken by surprise.

For its size, I found getting around Marinduque really difficult. Jeepneys, as they are called, resemble those 70s style school buses with psychedelic designs on them. They circulate the island, but stopping only at odd points. When I visited, there was no clear schedule to be found anywhere.

Jeepneys are loud, windowless and uncomfortable for long journeys. Still, I found their colourful, goofy design cheerful and charming.

You know that part earlier, where I said I was totally unprepared for Marinduque? Well, they says error is the best teacher. Experiences like this, my friend, teach you to research in advance.

I was staying in an area of Marinduque called Cagpo. I had completely underestimated the size of the island. Asking around the port, I was told that it would take hours to get to Cagpo with a trike or taxi (and 800 PHP – cash I didn’t have). Instead, I hopped on a Jeepney from Gasan (the port), to Buenavista for 50 PHP – in the right direction, but still a good hour from Cagpo.

In Buenavista, there were no trikes to be seen. So I did what I could: I grabbed my bag and walked along the road for a while. Along the road I got chatting to some stall owners and bought some water, and they were kind of enough to let me use their bathroom. They were cheerful and keen to hear about the next part of the journey. “If you can’t find a taxi, you can just sleep here!”, they said happily. My experience of Philippine hospitality has always been this: incredibly warm, friendly and generous.

Eventually, I met two Filipino missionaries who were in a similar predicament. We were heading in a similar direction, so we decided to wait for a trike together and split the cost. The stall owners helped us flag one down, and after thanking them, the missionaries and I shared a 45-minute ride for 200 PHP each. After dropping the missionaries off, the driver became disagreeable and tried to charge me more than we had agreed together. But aside from the hassle, the ride was beautiful and I eventually made it to my destination, Cagpo Beach Club.

How do you get around Marinduque?

I spent three days in Marinduque and really wished I’d understood more about the island – I would’ve definitely stayed more. Considering its size, vibrancy and fact that it’s relatively well-developed (transport aside), there wasn’t much information available online and this made planning difficult.

When I visited in 2015, there were a few different ways to get around:

• Jeepneys, which hop around from terminal to terminal
• Trikes (similar to tuk tuks) for ad-hoc transport. These can be flagged down like taxis
• Vans, which you need to book in advance by telephone. They then arrange group travel. This is called ‘UV Express Service’ and is probably the most comfortable way to get around

Given that the Philippine government calls Marinduque a beautiful tourist destination, and people don’t tend to take cars travelling, I was surprised at how difficult it was to get around.

There are many ways to get there, and many different ferries and buses work together to get tourists there. Jacliner even has a direct route from Manila.

What is Marinduque like?

The set up is there – the island is green and gorgeous, with beautiful beaches and connections to the mainland. Resorts and accommodation options exist, although when I visited, it was difficult to book anything online. There are mountains to climb, hikes, diving spots, hot springs, beaches for swimming and kayaking…

The only thing I found a pain was getting around. Perhaps this has changed? If you’ve visited after 2015 and had a different experience, I’d love to know in the comments!

Where did you stay in Marinduque?

I stayed at Cagpo Beach Club, for its proximity to Poctoy White Beach. They used to have their own website, but don’t have it anymore. They are on Booking, but not taking reservations – perhaps they closed?

I found it OK. Stunning destination on the beach, but there were a few aspects I found a bit weird, like not being able to bring in your own food and drink onsite. I understand that you shouldn’t have a beer in their bar for example, but it’s hot and I felt guilty even bringing a bottle of water in the room. I also like to snack throughout the day and felt I couldn’t, or I’d face a surcharge. There were a few other strange things going on as well.

Still, I definitely enjoyed my stay – particularly my lovely remote working station in front of the quiet beach – see below!

Now, there are a few more options for staying around Marinduque – I’d suggest checking Booking, Agoda and Expedia. If you have a place you’d recommend, I’d love to know in the comments too.

Are there ATMs on Marinduque?

When I visited in 2015, there were ATMs in the bigger destination.

Is there an airport in Marinduque?

I believe that there is currently an open airport, but cannot confirm. When I visited in 2015, the airport was closed. It had closed a few years earlier, apparently a big blow to many of the resorts. Google Maps shows current (2023) reviews of Marinduque airport, suggesting it’s open. If you have any information on this, I’d love to know and I’ll update accordingly.

What is there to do in Marinduque?

So much! Visiting the beaches, the different parts of the islands (hopefully with less difficulty than I encountered!), relaxing on the beach, kayaking, snorkelling, hiking, diving, sampling food and drinks. One thing to note is that it felt a bit more expensive than other islands around the Philippines.

I spent most of my time relaxing at the accommodation (a secluded setting with a lovely private beach) and Poctoy White Beach walking, snorkelling, kayaking and relaxing.

After a couple of days of relaxing on the beach, it was time to make my way to my final stop, Manila. More on that in part 5, coming soon.

Your thoughts on Marinduque

Have you been to Marinduque? Do you agree or disagree with my 2015 assessment? Do you have a blog I should link? Thoughts? I would love to hear from you in the comments. And in the meantime, thanks for reading – ingat lage!